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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn9HxpfHxBU
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe8yvEfESVh
「這麼早？」旭仔問。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuS1cq4q9tN
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwnNKFYHedl
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡctWIKxKL0A
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm70OBzTrFU
「是啊，要趕路了。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN22G64b1Kz
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ4lgYgVSqg
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmnRABdWP22
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLO15JfBwgZ
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ049R2R98za
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlBGGhD7Hl1
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIyTRvy8JQm
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKKG9PBac0L
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnFaDFMIj6C
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6NK7WxvjHa
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVG86wnKMAv
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc8u412dvOV
「謝謝你。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJj6dJpPKDH
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsGxBNCJ7BE
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzxInaiXbDk
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUTs3qMJbQs
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvlaE5s805S
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHSZKzRmttD
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfvGadNTTDN
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxB2ZKCJf81
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGpWqFUe3lw
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCOejBqN37l
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu7R7xks5WC
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXpSTplbBgx
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPLQRrGN9F6
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXnNxryJiXM
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ1rGQ7g3yk
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSWbBghCDEg
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxgNDtyI9TL
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcbSKNFeRDG
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcwprtCl17E
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpGqyO5CNnh
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI1rT3F43B0
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKPAMqgLcPD
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlw9JkYeac5
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmXkqg9gQRz
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5zd19n4GxR
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEBWxPUuutO
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbBINndYPMr
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8ZkzMRqsmq
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQZyUrkwKxb
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIbPURaKykd
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFqj5v7C9AO
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfM7yK8l0lw
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn4WnL0VRGG
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3E9B8KNnaQ
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXrgcT5xksv
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYB7iFZi1qD
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHZWjfZLZcx
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRvZRX27ByU
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdK2nv7dPll
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvPx0ywla7b
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZUChj7O585
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyLaArEahDx
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡorgxZlsoUP
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBYbBrJecAZ
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrRPyVWPqB7
「是的。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡreiaUGgl8G
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFcBnGAqGgm
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡO8p6wf5gKC
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmXNYwZbAuU
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ70ty3zc8lG
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCyTSjz4ixl
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV2khZhAsjb
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBBwyt4twhc
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqL0WwotsXr
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8J8qN2Sj3s
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbZeWz7aQAa
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSehKhi7B6D
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAgRbwms8XR
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcbTpJ07FEy
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtW1vYisNoM
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1uzF2D6M9n
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUgCWvli071
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡepKeu9OFam
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0VgTLIGRGb
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ19UooRuI3Z
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoWGb5Y9g3M
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUKe5zAweJt
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDQES8uRCuA
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡslFnrjIr8B
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡviuKLiYXYQ
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLHpjvwE7tO
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkaxPl77Grd
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRy2SNbE1dk
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi7IBffPyrG
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwOWjR7HCDD
「太好了！」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkf62NxVBvw
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡujUFttovbo
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtKO3YMr3av
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGbA7fkcjD7
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQlWYZ6hQF7
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRGbpDZJUYu
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBpvZnMdqKh
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZIGoMPFU54
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3IYLa0KG1u
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyDBEEcygNM
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCOvvSD7sPh
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBkGSduPfpo
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkFcYrGbdJF
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡao3EXgwbu3
「好。」旭仔答。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDVUpJ1dI6O
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAJNfgRmkDr
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsY0JnLE6pO
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLtahnedqnw
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb0UEhEJSdK
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwvIj0DX5nf
旭仔淺嘗一口。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrkz4bzesnQ
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbbWVwpdSF8
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4k2cvwBKyY
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1m9JnXVZ1j
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwexwBYJof1
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlnOMNdVKRF
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGxCO7olzRb
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXtPtRkwgIK
「好喝。」旭仔答。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOlTX2S12cu
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlgPl8TC7Q4
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIkeRhvsjyZ
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWCfKitEZY3
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7ml7V2qMFE
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTnSkQMxT36
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhnCz8L3iZV
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgQno9cwNuc
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyyNRBkAUDz
465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡudCdmCLV4x
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。465Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD7gKSxlP4B
