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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJAhQQOyIbY
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxoqDz3pBzJ
「這麼早？」旭仔問。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzfQVpl72X4
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBdCcvszGTF
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV0YoqkKP3J
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDqX3Y3vJMt
「是啊，要趕路了。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJYaQmoLk4W
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡltpRiXMldY
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkHa1Jk9KYR
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa5iTc20X5n
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP6RLA52Z2D
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjdqa4MlI01
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTbOfOZLneO
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvElKKRMt3Z
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJpiFYdhDkZ
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdyBtlvS4QV
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbKf1y7RscD
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmpid2Emjt3
「謝謝你。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp6ZSf3tIej
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYGTTE4LzVY
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcZwqbeCWg3
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0CXfIOsvT5
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD3Rh8iWUwp
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhbJeZFmeNP
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7htXUZ3lkO
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0EQv2ZrrXw
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsGrHl3XC7D
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡddF9lfXBKX
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3JRRdiSRwR
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB4lXhjq8hf
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6lUNSqNg12
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaC4VhWC3TZ
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXlKFQPizeu
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr6zrOWKWvS
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAIoBiua0oN
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcSe0od2hKM
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWths14L0wb
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDoiaOXXreE
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFLHLVO6AGp
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFc3TYnAXH9
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtaWH3oTELv
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbHcZSs8Agh
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgmCS7IVxqp
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK1GI2vztIZ
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqM2UCXYXMp
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡomfXgXioDC
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡra0Efvyzt5
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ12yjbWnrBi
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmYgcmykK63
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5xGyRCrzOh
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr1elrBY1XL
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrXVg1nDqZB
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡswICFwLkZR
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqHUcRQhF1Y
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGUXXjNos0k
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYX8XuGzwIs
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7hYb13eKQj
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8Ko7CyyEei
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdMvHrbyiWL
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2TKCwSytjr
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM51JamRPgo
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡucsRlghGhp
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfDBSp0oX4K
「是的。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAcqAyX1Moa
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3eBI8MNjUO
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxwSRf1muNb
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlt2tQgIQ4R
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrooZE0MWp5
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvrbBWm9WMa
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡynvT1qJ80X
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfTrzuHhLLN
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzHP3HXaUNP
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfOmhfhmYQR
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEb7J2WPVO0
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGxnlyEtVSv
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJwGpIlpRXU
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn0SOBARqRM
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfpwenq1qtz
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMXvRDejAav
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgS4Uldnv7a
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLdo1xvuT6y
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡic4czSenaR
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrXJQkTzenT
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsTcapPM3e4
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0WJD3cF0ax
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBEApWEa4sR
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC726r1DRtN
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKuaMg39jMs
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkHIwYyux8J
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ92BclCuQRX
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7QPan7wXgR
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUcwY9U0jvM
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTg9tS1VgY3
「太好了！」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFA3ZO6uX5L
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡupo6SSw1Xi
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUn5UhiTsar
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPf2L80GLsI
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTVbAK3PIAa
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4puOBmijID
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ94AiMZAscC
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsZD0x6yhts
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAISCkuQ7TC
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6SaN4RsH5c
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFG8rrQOsly
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8EyErBxJnP
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLTyZB3158Z
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyqLmq8iYzc
「好。」旭仔答。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCo3U7NSXTt
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtRxSAn1xlZ
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMKfuDpy0pu
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAGpr59Aczh
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjDajKOEiXt
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX4qdK7dmp4
旭仔淺嘗一口。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCavqYJfWcz
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjdJIKZ40O4
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQQKxY04H2P
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLhQnQ9bbzU
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbLNNrTUsHJ
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1WPi6vc7aq
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjxPdRuyJwS
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz7ZBxziIet
「好喝。」旭仔答。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5l2ydvIcD1
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTfOyOLiFPI
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtpxA8pbeNz
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1B207c08bn
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNfwZzY4Ra4
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVcE9z1vdDH
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbDXjqp3b0Q
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN82PdYPzOB
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeXb0p7Oowh
422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEierqHsbiy
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。422Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbGVEo2PsUe
