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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSAPYG2p4FK
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBxODs62FgI
「這麼早？」旭仔問。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsAAqDBc98q
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvT6aNP3MbX
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKVbEUUTb6A
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWfmLrc1CnN
「是啊，要趕路了。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK0pHUt025E
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe4awwlAeOI
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7C5Ra1ByWp
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzmtFH7M8tF
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLZnGQuAKFQ
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡThMLOFmMAO
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxLsHOISCYx
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNUAtnrm7NZ
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiBsPsmxeUe
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3hxfEqPWNQ
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjae7b3Ukfi
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQlGq8qNN8r
「謝謝你。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlYK1XvSDJi
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKqtwfLugb2
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzCwKkM0ejP
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡePqgBS3bnr
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHQqhpsdGrW
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOPLxgcOZrB
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKvSdHb9D4i
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeI1LHmvaMv
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQSV1KprTUF
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhPBZOgUoAF
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1ePaUT1b1I
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡikKGHwUrE3
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhOkj118n8P
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJZAxLHByVh
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUAN3EUSXfH
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9SJX7YEqyx
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw1X9hL3FBR
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGevH8Mkqxo
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk1YBHXw9K4
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcsYQ9iZSe0
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbEfha7HT1v
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgsgc3I1WFE
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY7V6DQFr0V
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp4x9eeaAPa
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡthPrwREdx4
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeNXQAxdqgT
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGnB5Krni20
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUqZcnyPULG
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHkSejcdVyi
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSjENQnHc4j
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoqprrFPQCI
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ19kEN7xgIZ
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGmJ55sNMr9
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM67OrouVr2
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡINKGxHM3kM
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJLVj8BbV34
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe9VOkA1FyK
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡic7t7c24s6
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8vzGIodM2X
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0EmG36zHu2
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwKzvRqlkSY
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWzzPMFcblm
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyFbzyYfNnh
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPDT3yxEV9f
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8mEHUqKHf4
「是的。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpEvwFe1XN5
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTz1iAoJPmB
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN8xhjh7K57
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvu7HR5O7oQ
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf5ZrZ667cu
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkH3lRF1GiX
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrUMhaF4Ya1
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsg6mqOa5M9
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCb0o4zS8cn
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnvBSXzyObG
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡos9TMTq7sy
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDRnhhIIMkI
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYCKwmjPITy
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4PCdzbYt7r
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeBSSXgjFJX
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx3gmQQxHRE
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqTVFfXwLLu
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv6wmRTD78Z
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNE7oDGDJcs
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhHS5avhmwy
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡczRe4HZZGq
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhTXiOjwGZm
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyuu7Tdvapa
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDuR57cJgrJ
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1rwOS8K2LK
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiqwcusnAaK
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV6lROSIkDT
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ9q1H9fwIO
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw7TSxJaUdY
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡelCGOmCHNx
「太好了！」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnciY5WZiEp
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrbWKSpbuhu
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBbtmWc5Smq
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfjDiVlx6im
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU7GETawbeM
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnhk5da896E
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyaibGW0Ysk
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk1ahKg3bsx
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdK5PVYI5jh
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg448fejfHC
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdMekKHadOF
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKnl6Klipzg
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1sJtFDg3NG
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMHlHE6kqMK
「好。」旭仔答。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2G0zTS4rUd
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtAfvnEF7QU
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9otP8xv2RV
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLGA2IiydhD
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDrCxzpEhlX
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUvl2oI9BL9
旭仔淺嘗一口。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡchuA1gPRwh
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡacg3vygQad
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMt9xPRyhcJ
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiguL3YCIPj
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyd39ZlXcno
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxpasn9CJdN
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeKj50MxMtO
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2iuU8t8El0
「好喝。」旭仔答。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE6nwBiqKql
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeMXzK2OT6Z
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSAOHSYJqG2
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZsB2SkAfae
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡour1DdykQF
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMXcvWo7fka
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ5eTM8tiWv
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ1pwnkw2bM
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfN8BJ9a6Sd
466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzTG7yR4HVW
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。466Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPGfPTf8x8E
