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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA0c25sdoQX
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPIX2SmU24V
「這麼早？」旭仔問。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDuCGMXqqGQ
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5QXVe1yy32
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPIfIsh7gZz
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKs2bHgM1Ai
「是啊，要趕路了。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ11CBFlLnak
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYdbhAqalMw
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpfZL7Tu0fL
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX6t0bj2fxb
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2OTq3LaTd5
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ364G9u8HJi
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5lWZHh7Fjm
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWeGRPM7g36
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDsJTAHSWFb
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXoX9YxXNdf
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ64E9PaQLJD
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLoNrHk4Qoy
「謝謝你。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ40NqkaLslP
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB5Q2sWuZir
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwXPGIv795x
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbcNt3XRS5o
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHicHz0wJIG
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmspzlyQ8fj
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjggIqbUr42
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡht2YjPBv0K
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4WWoNlJiPO
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6im2ivsY80
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyxwGkBdTd4
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrtF6CHLE2t
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8VdhrbGGtW
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuVNMU8PWFW
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXdhh5gzIOs
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvPY5Hxp7yi
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZxvyGT1yEB
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ42qXmfrD1
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt3huYr8ID6
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCRLkvIiE3h
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXmhNJ89CZO
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEpoPHX33tQ
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡknJyqBON11
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZYQ06vIeM1
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBflQDT0ZRt
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeRsF2VtcaA
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgaHvxzEueF
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk2ixc7rU6O
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMIiGtoNOBd
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1HiYSbEwhj
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdG57CJrH2k
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkQPrXrUYfA
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBy8lIAvRIo
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡspOq2eoHpP
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEsWqwqf87C
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ35gkBUdFD5
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZTEw31YdJJ
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvRGj5rdumr
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPzO4K77bKJ
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxUgtb8nX1o
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsvkqL7p2hw
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRwUTTc49gX
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMnC2jCE500
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY8rao24krH
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9NHRvOUYk0
「是的。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH62wFGgqwE
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFG2GqcO2A7
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2tf6KCKfAR
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7NtdAwNRGO
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEVo0tYU2HT
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1QHGQJrFD0
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhdqP5TI7om
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpDzMg2gVp1
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzvfiHwCSXI
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzu6GCfotA8
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaa9cmJgNYm
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9vX7MT7EOr
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf0x7WMbthS
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdeSx17XiFp
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUljBRXZzCi
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiD5tJZsh3X
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGcvfVy5g4k
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvbbANfWRox
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡO18UyVJ6st
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPfDWqBFcdy
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtL9PID23N0
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbBEU0RGrM5
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7a5MGDF5Dh
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpn6mjMnMyH
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGHBRxpddin
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfMbl8AkcY9
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnfM0AhqhcW
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLlVaXY4DlC
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo2MJuIgJ2C
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNEzqsuSDLY
「太好了！」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6dtjCM2lZA
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡydbdbPJE9R
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQmJ4qu3ema
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlX2QJznlAU
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGVAb85xhWI
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnD11vFONn5
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXF3pnvmx6k
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHmEhBWEluO
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKy8QPZeK1v
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgPT1B00C7i
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ74zy9jzQbp
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3XDR3HZ60t
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcPkwIaUGcw
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdz4qOblsqo
「好。」旭仔答。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtiibx94otW
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpRDHgbZ2P8
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLh8Pj4qA4B
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiDQ8k4Waoo
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoQoMIU7JaK
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfeZkJxbT5L
旭仔淺嘗一口。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkUC33uzfzL
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVqLWP8RFxv
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6hPRQcr8Tn
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXPPiQVsdax
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyllrF6bvPq
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMG9qIih8Zd
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw6PLXw1CC8
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu85crZob9P
「好喝。」旭仔答。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡznMcmBD32T
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQPGJ4x5Cus
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWaNXEWWJZW
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7G7SNxWVp5
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6o04K8cofj
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGjtpUNgNdO
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpXu69Z7mHL
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCvGHDuKExq
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoxFCT8flRD
448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡehCrvzuxfn
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。448Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt8EFotN1s5
