x
朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU6FS9tV8Bq
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8yPbWDljEW
「這麼早？」旭仔問。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtXDwr32lPK
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXGapSlFkwg
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWo6YBGv0lC
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKFcuuNUmR2
「是啊，要趕路了。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoZlY4KLsBY
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG7fN8I8zO0
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8BmM296lHx
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvejMnc1jMf
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGMUhiEyCnh
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY2bH8FqtuX
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeotyjKF4Re
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfk13YmV6mL
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiRrWzl8OZA
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTbMHxpSjke
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1kuiDTAAD0
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrH0lHTRtyk
「謝謝你。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgetkeoIfeN
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0oLCiVXPMF
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB3aG1aOha2
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTuUiah4F9k
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOJnrPlHhEA
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡathYe0J5Ah
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCJ4BeL45pO
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXaMBdD6cqZ
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjkKiIuCkov
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5IUX0DMiSM
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMOgjbGY4fn
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpfBeaxIv0X
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5vhcpPmTZ2
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOwmkgIhuLg
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoIsF1XFwcB
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8rnYXug3Tj
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXAvXMBE7ff
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFrMwbAvBhW
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8lJEq6PbF6
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3rE019WHjP
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgee5TQiiwT
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvSmxkE2Zi3
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhj4n92hV8B
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBdHEb7ko8X
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS2F3D1fJ6l
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs4yiPSvZ7s
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ8e6OURejE
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1ZmtRqdUTf
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9ASVrSGUSt
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlnZjo15qkE
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvDgya5nFB9
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEL84oj3j12
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLN4FUWT1A4
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUGwVGmiOU1
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa8Nl7lRVQ3
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡha8WF6Szej
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtX4Femkwez
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOEWk5NYou2
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaAAvpzJoil
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmMkiqT3okf
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZBX1G0PxaV
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuRoPpA4zKw
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy6UCoTlaaL
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbdfMXnKTyK
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFsE8hxNrbF
「是的。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVOWztXLWFA
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0J2x9A5fX2
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPufZ0S4AA1
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXxjJ4zO1I6
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmLX1sR1kWQ
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSDlfq8DaWw
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlqpdcwbclm
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwQgpvHm3FR
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP5qdToKAUT
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvtjjgn0b2k
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsQFPYKtttQ
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcELWYlP84F
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfNPv0V5Dyz
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLHytocx0Bw
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXBRrpNKgZ3
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDTzEjDNypF
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡffIgvnMme7
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1yla8lebi7
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnQ9Cnrnm0z
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAL2hMnThHS
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOhGTM4FqIl
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSAyJqKjL5B
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5hsyh0Jtbn
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHX27WzgDHD
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ743ykwnyjA
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡryb6zojmUU
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5EvlcYaYId
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2BzfakREEe
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdIIoPNhC5r
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwtaHCphBMO
「太好了！」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzWkRmdcoU6
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS0Ne5oDACa
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbu4vYIfIDq
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx6aeGYJ0RF
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgrzbuO6xCz
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbbImIPOEpE
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2pNeRCssr5
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvVjloZMwxf
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrsrkDQ6hOH
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcDKRJ5royd
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ64UjRF6gGP
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH9zd0c1R0L
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMAobSw0mJu
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡghrm0WRoqL
「好。」旭仔答。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUCYyrTDaiF
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF4CkFw74Zv
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡepkawriu0z
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ06789m76AK
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqSkr8kg80d
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeMCo2roqnQ
旭仔淺嘗一口。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9xRGl7x5qe
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKvmxmlNRBI
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlxWkuM8f0H
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8sGWnfBtsa
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9Cos4EmWQv
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfVFgDotO8Z
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJMbvMV655a
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1GhuYokZCp
「好喝。」旭仔答。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEjurUuMEO7
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjOnTG4mTcb
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJb27RX7kpR
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJuO6nneIjb
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTkLfaCbSCs
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSd3NnwbXrR
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQZVbwxQ9k4
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7yPX1oOumU
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDsD8lBnLnt
503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVu8fhtIFwp
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。503Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQuun8oQ10k
