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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbAsncQ1TaY
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgGW7dnBok4
「這麼早？」旭仔問。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEnCRyT0xF0
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwUYm78mewx
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYCUXOxerJD
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi26BjtHMbP
「是啊，要趕路了。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSp3SmgMyPu
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ356f652Zb
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN9SdIiOLJY
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyqeXTkMJGI
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJIe2kYaelK
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡthMZoeJTYu
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5hKyYK5mad
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPn1Lb4maYC
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKUGVKZc6O5
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh4nb9GqSAM
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1XFkZhGzvO
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2myOg514qq
「謝謝你。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzSQ2lu6nxN
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCqZBwcq21g
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI9Cz9kyR3d
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡO3OVuLK4Az
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYEnO6EwgZW
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaCs3CM7KFn
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7p0nNUPbat
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnno0C0slC3
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz22Lg2QaCq
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtWlO8Ijiuv
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxkCECqs3dH
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdSl9z3ppIA
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡijCVE14gNC
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFps026FTG4
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzV3pFQPmVs
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1XgxZwqnDs
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCfo5ko4xVu
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd0ub1pyJLY
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWtg20KLOAq
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2cpdQ9HJJt
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1crRHD4KW3
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8u1RpA9b5t
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQoBARSfgHc
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxaI5jye9iE
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeRkkK1GFb2
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxnzfuPDcIW
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKWjhJ3EYct
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVxrqZHKM3K
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlCvwFeL18b
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6Y6hoh7Tou
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4cREx63fY4
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGW799X92lh
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡehNKCJqgeI
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡem1mlU4Jzi
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ1aVINzVnz
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡchhqkPDHVh
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0SWNpuwy6G
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhgKeYsxynZ
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDLo0TVYTMG
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLHGi0LAWtd
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXEDnfEti8S
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxx76tHFenI
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡppGhDQLXC3
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyFlwyzMQl5
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKihpqLxdv4
「是的。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡifAYuArMEs
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW8PohkofB8
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡY8Lj1rBbia
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBpS0RylDcx
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlImhGUAKX5
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSwpvJWCZPr
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2ejgFPSdDh
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEYYWLwylpX
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWMT5UsqYpl
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡECxMuj47mW
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDNYKLLpDZZ
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTVt5Rvui0r
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqy0nwEuST4
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHe2LaMmAuf
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqHK7Ix7xj1
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5MLpL9FB9X
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiRsxZd9FkO
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡclRZDAVyjB
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeUal1yokri
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0Ci8ajHFEd
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaG3aLQtIAu
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs0MIRVLwgt
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXRTzSfvJUK
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwqLbrKKM2e
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJDSq38WIcx
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsKCHrxgLWw
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡniSUzUtqq0
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv3K6Awz2lp
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcsmtXDIIuL
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKNd2CQFH5S
「太好了！」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyhQ7GlGddD
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuLP9C35Suq
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfouA5Ytxls
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpyxJCYt79w
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡODMs0t3mwu
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMDUY1hHkz9
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ049iSbsnn3
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTr11GGFWs3
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWHq2ID7UbK
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGRGySc0zyv
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpRQfSaC3HB
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyfGVaGPc8E
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlIyN2aqBYH
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhN2jLuxIej
「好。」旭仔答。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡViVmWw7vsh
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUqSfZMWAlv
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ5PQTDHy3S
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpTmc2Ch3nM
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF0ehmxdbzX
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwSoz0UF4kT
旭仔淺嘗一口。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwHB7oi0wF5
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxQVGACLfPQ
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5XL5UdDkbB
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxuw3gH6PKx
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrS3oh4pcAG
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCTXNpy5lzw
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs5R5xzks3r
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ245JVsIsPN
「好喝。」旭仔答。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡep5cZUdMzA
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBB0AQVN9Vq
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡObpvQTtftS
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2b78I1VoID
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE3U115gI5o
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK7pkietWhB
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEJeqJRetfG
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1hDba6hESM
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUoSrbULD4A
464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXmzvC7OHMc
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。464Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1wr219acPz
