x
朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKHGyc7AlMT
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQxqyiAbzY9
「這麼早？」旭仔問。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiPs2sNZrzR
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOstbjocYL7
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4LXyxqXt2b
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFqUQypmhD3
「是啊，要趕路了。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmcJrGm3eew
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhMlmGH5ViY
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfLxxPwlNp7
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvZbgL0PEE4
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpA8iOxtejI
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7NPRCJGqVg
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡftsixCAehf
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT8gsHglnst
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7xFvVLB4GB
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWTruP8wBdz
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡluWtpQlBNw
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr7o6955gSA
「謝謝你。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9r6FCnkkj0
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzG10SdvUsm
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVnxUfYiSgz
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9RxMSsh479
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnHswKXpmgv
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSb5vXmQbHs
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡROXwz867wa
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWUJ5OwIQOG
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmBWaiiIpdb
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxwwnCifA2y
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ57KFEIbCq2
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3B91dmaZXm
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuKiiNnBAeQ
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuMWNUNLDiN
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuUhxhxn7p3
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgY5zMEhFhP
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzVgbfZPOLO
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsB4qS7EbC0
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkx7xBPOIlD
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNPa4jsIoL4
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4n04Z6jkBp
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt8cfOG8XkM
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa0Fp3qqjPP
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpz29WWmnzE
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl3QwkrPZue
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1JQF7y4Fp8
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMa4wWEb6s4
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡscoX3hJ9vc
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDOWMEO4zJ4
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQvU1Tvys1o
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡub35lyiTbH
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiCoA7gKWFy
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7z1UXbMcwK
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡD5VgLm1RgQ
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcq9V1k2ipi
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhzNwOBZm1r
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5aU8qv3fRD
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWjdxkqVNKW
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrm6X8icyei
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGbL3kgVu5T
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmDF28zQMED
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDazGIw5VNn
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsyIzG7lj3j
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡASdvzXZLND
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjFKHkIk79W
「是的。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwTgf6JKXaS
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkMIwgB4dAj
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnpX2RiGCE0
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡShTdWFpV1G
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5eArgQR8R1
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEdBNJEGzqn
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdMxm6DZPBa
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf6YDOs4B0u
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyoinF2TihE
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2kaBbudo3m
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNn7KHDbjDt
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOvTEsWfAeF
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIPTrY5aEe7
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQfp72PmHKU
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡotN5pWJ6ef
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoDrpQ5wr75
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpOd15zVFSG
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzUeDCyaWJU
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfI1QdZDb6v
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrzAmexR2Az
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg2a8G8ZdB5
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡabA0s4VG69
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3Nei4ZTnpg
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH8e7ubnxoj
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNRvfv0eREd
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqeNgCZCOE5
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhR0h6xP3wV
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIOcQVxvC3o
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmbURcsipKt
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsSVOAejo1Q
「太好了！」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5AumQJB8Rv
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoi5GmrhaDa
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtLsyklcnEk
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG4FC5rG5LI
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIqW1vwCgDq
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKHAhvUkbAM
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQrfj3PFpP6
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW8vjKmPFPk
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCtgL396uCA
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAqaEAQxAEN
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1mu9ySkAoP
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4ZX1kquvaq
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdfniEvYzGi
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwjJTLRpztV
「好。」旭仔答。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMambiLXUYd
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEErvJeyzfK
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3lAytFNCHe
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXOggoy76HI
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7lcBJcHWhf
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ33gAIuJ009
旭仔淺嘗一口。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqLGpQqBGsL
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡebcggvONYP
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDRRaafIuso
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBWeMf7Yon4
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡflVoEWCCfW
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3GWLw4UbKU
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYMP8O95qD1
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcHtUd0gG87
「好喝。」旭仔答。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEFVb1NXNlt
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4cA0LBAMqk
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFrfB2d9V6l
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfwHYBqzMSL
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDEtyN3uYvl
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI8pQCezL0F
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2r6rh4XRgh
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXmEp7BLEJN
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡptxXFwEOHb
451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhM6sk96XjV
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。451Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDFhCvVwlTW
