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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYy8hzwLmzJ
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbbtaRHoWeK
「這麼早？」旭仔問。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3Odj2Ix8Bu
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡchamtMWntF
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHwVF2BhkWy
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGZvjm29jEC
「是啊，要趕路了。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLE96iHhr4w
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7JPQUeqsDy
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVtabj650iV
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIIKF5FZBEQ
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpMuGznKvDP
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbugysoM1fg
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKJYCP90Hmx
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡksPCuZ3nO8
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmnRXgn9PgC
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbyi51EVI7h
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM34ubs4Yd8
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwfoeUeLqXH
「謝謝你。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYGWUzaq6uV
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2Cky37jfbv
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCBpoRc9Cto
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡikrMA0Hl6r
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzRf784Rc82
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7x99CFBm5l
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNH2yLDcGDM
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbpBdXfUGQP
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaddAyUYcYo
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJi28TDfcQm
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA00lzRbtqA
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhFRZoMhKsG
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbFVDS9M6RQ
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpn5m14gBE8
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvNoIxzl6YY
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7bh0YPQdNx
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMwMml6jFfN
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBAl3mn458s
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEj7aNs4Raj
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk50KIoRuHN
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtDL1ncOCoi
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdCIUhtSIYz
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTWssYsTS8p
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCCxVSO5uPq
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV1gFGxsPPb
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjKrvnzForQ
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU3hdSIX6Zb
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeWJbwSsYeC
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9JKEnVx6bY
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUx0txNpETd
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR01XHSjGFM
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJWGNoxMmZy
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMCP4cEndAy
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpdFKcndEWc
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhihPfPwxf1
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡamrBLZJbhz
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU939s4CRbF
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHP4mjWFHAy
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP09XrPu3X1
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaQl1AjNyak
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡShEm2gwWiC
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSVYtbXz1AP
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTmknJ7PJ0k
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiFHB2Z9vVu
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtyigkfiW8G
「是的。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡozFNbwEKVc
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqRgWVq9kND
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYUEyYN9aXP
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj6C0SPElAc
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEnS3ZoV7qd
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGRm7eo01nL
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOctTxYKAi1
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU2d56bJANa
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkeZAOOlOXH
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxeb1xyM3Jh
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBLUB6Jybcw
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqEQ5U51mta
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxCMi0d5RT8
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡn1F3GeHJYt
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ88DJdgRJQz
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGAxPpPYohm
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsi5Mq2R12V
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVF4eaNWJ6D
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBBF4ohRNUH
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdWggycKfrC
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrNrEOGiewl
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5PXuD4O4sE
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0fyLYwrQDV
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdaP3gB29oz
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDmrr7TZXAr
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUdmlMQrSfO
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHw1kjvIKe9
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMkzb2gteQP
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEQzRkzRLfn
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzGL4n0HNyM
「太好了！」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZi87Th3HPr
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5fd1WNb0VM
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIrpG26PSEH
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTQq2oIEUXk
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1tNXkCw8P8
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvUPpNOhWyR
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3pfEXFhRwN
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5vI11WNQX6
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXMR64luCFb
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKAoGQVvt7A
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOP6bgfifcg
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSFRrSjEW2B
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWOW20oBfPb
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUQ8XvXrDPv
「好。」旭仔答。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3GiSlfrHeJ
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB4NQnh41u9
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRdOUpZnqRR
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4yCS7CBmVX
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNyj0kodGFl
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYWvzwT5fvR
旭仔淺嘗一口。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk8QRL15Ma9
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4Rj7mj0DTd
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJJc41n7Cb7
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2FjlrwFwkY
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYB7s7ZZwpt
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwwZKDOtOJr
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtLG5jFqKcV
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3oCttRlzpE
「好喝。」旭仔答。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDzubp9YYUl
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYjGPtUENjZ
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBwiCqksmus
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDHGxkOYGxy
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzAyEZKz25E
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9FGAFpCrNy
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt7VyiSFZQF
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYOFgNtn4el
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBwS9RgTNRm
467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg3qLue5Gm7
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。467Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWukhQzgu2z
