x
No Plagiarism!ndqGutYrsNKQiXg7OmpRposted on PENANA
在昨天更的那篇文裏,我說過河南衛視出了太平和婉兒的小片段,並請來了著名的化妝師毛戈平作妝容設計。8964 copyright protection176PENANAhlgRXgUL7Y 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAwgc41SBPM5
8964 copyright protection176PENANANfaSu8YiDK 維尼
本人再看了一下以後(第一次看的時候,只顧着看那兩個舞者跳舞了xd),發現裏頭扮演太平和婉兒的舞者的妝容和服飾的確符合初唐女子的裝扮,所以就跑來寫科普文了嘻嘻~8964 copyright protection176PENANAWEHgG06ZYa 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANA6WzpxaeW3u
8964 copyright protection176PENANADcbUXWo6vN 維尼
首先是太平和婉兒小時候玩樂的場景:8964 copyright protection176PENANAXta6vXK3zP 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAhMk77bADYk
8964 copyright protection176PENANAPs6n044az5 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAEYEyk2jAX6 維尼
(左邊扮演婉兒,右邊扮演太平)8964 copyright protection176PENANAq0y6I5ZVxe 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANA7XglncpOC4
8964 copyright protection176PENANA5BoFylT3nj 維尼
如果沒有猜錯的話,後面的背景正是先前我在小說裏提及的太液池,而婉兒手上正是以卷軸裝幀的書卷。8964 copyright protection176PENANAGqp2bpMEax 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAPPyuopz27R 維尼
兩名舞蹈演員穿的上衣是窄袖,初唐女子因為受胡服影響關係,流行穿着上衣為窄袖的齊胸襦裙。8964 copyright protection176PENANA4c5iUiC5zt 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAG01iY5PfTt
8964 copyright protection176PENANAB0BZGpyJBt 維尼
至於下身那條花紋像極小時候在文具店買到的西瓜波裙子,其實就是隋唐女性喜穿的間色裙,在不少唐代墓室壁畫中也可以看到:8964 copyright protection176PENANAWuAlvPNmvG 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAzuQtBChNJm 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAZPaVxmCToQ
8964 copyright protection176PENANABeSJfalvXR 維尼
(來,大家看一下左邊那條綠色的裙子是不是像太平穿的那條?右邊的簡直是婉兒翻版xd)8964 copyright protection176PENANAgsmJ6DzTtL 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANA8CidX4Yx5D
8964 copyright protection176PENANAbXvDzopoXs 維尼
因為片中小時候的她們化的是淡妝,所以我們可以接着看她們長大後的畫面。8964 copyright protection176PENANADTdGISWDg4 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAwocMbvpxPD
8964 copyright protection176PENANARJdzs5lSv1 維尼
下一個片段是她們位居朝堂(武周時她們是在洛陽紫微城),一身男裝打扮的模樣:8964 copyright protection176PENANAbr1GNhGOak 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAVDZ2I3mHZh
8964 copyright protection176PENANANvk5qWY8Ce 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAx8UGEEaAqz 維尼
(這次左邊是太平,右邊則是婉兒)8964 copyright protection176PENANAcmXMLyNkkb 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAIOa6nEwv3t
8964 copyright protection176PENANAQvpOloucSS 維尼
不知道大家還記不記得之前太平自求駙馬那段?太平就是穿了一身紫衣玉帶,在殿上載歌載舞的了。8964 copyright protection176PENANAHruF3kNNW7 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAxvx11as5Ye
8964 copyright protection176PENANAJ45GndyMD1 維尼
話說那些史官對女子一直存有偏見,因為太平穿以這身武官打扮跳舞,被史官稱之為「服妖」;而李隆基六歲時在武則天面前獻舞《長命女》,明明穿了一身女裝(古代的女裝大佬. jpg),那些史官卻說他孝順甚麼的(做人不要雙重標準好嗎?)。8964 copyright protection176PENANA2puxsAQd2O 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANA5qZlwYDZpx
8964 copyright protection176PENANAms4Cq4YJEf 維尼
而婉兒方面,她穿的是淺緋色圓領服,因為婉兒在高宗和武周時的身份是才人,屬於正五品,所以便穿了正五品官服了。至於她腰間繫着的,正是我先前在文中提過的蹀躞帶,蹀躞帶多為武官所配帶,唐代婦女則以此作裝飾。加以,她們足下所穿的,就是古代官員的皂靴。8964 copyright protection176PENANAX41NYJQF7p 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAbq8uH1fDJI
8964 copyright protection176PENANA5yk5onFh4c 維尼
唐代女子穿圓領官服 be like :8964 copyright protection176PENANAH3KXeBpGMK 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANArB1QCgYiiN
8964 copyright protection176PENANAQEXFQZs7HT 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANALlDJtu7fhF 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAFXNizTi8zP
8964 copyright protection176PENANAK6t5d5Cil8 維尼
現在我們來看一下這個時期她們的妝容:8964 copyright protection176PENANA9TmUwJDkid 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANApz0uiCOOL0
8964 copyright protection176PENANAE6baXHUIuH 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAYnNQIUvC3t 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAr02NfwwIR4
8964 copyright protection176PENANAnLG6zxf8G3 維尼
(先看右邊的太平)8964 copyright protection176PENANA6CdUCObIDf 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANA7AsSpqVYiU 維尼
大家細心留意一下,太平的臉上有一個月牙形狀的東西,其實那是隋唐婦女流行的一種名為「曉霞妝」的打扮。8964 copyright protection176PENANA6XiExj3VHD 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAmtAeJWeySm
8964 copyright protection176PENANAk2QRbOODMF 維尼
相傳曉霞妝是來源於魏文帝的宮人薛靈芸(即薛夜來),詳見五代詞人張泌的作品《妝樓記》:「夜來初入魏宮,一夕,文帝在燈下詠,以水晶七尺屏風障之。夜來至,不覺面觸屏上,傷處如曉霞將散,自是宮人俱用胭脂仿畫,名曉霞妝。」8964 copyright protection176PENANAKrTUMJl469 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANANgIk53yWmm
8964 copyright protection176PENANAtwiQP0oEuG 維尼
簡單來說,就是薛靈芸夜晚不小心撞到水晶做的(透明?)屏風,然後受傷流血了,魏文帝一看:嘩,那傷痕好美哦!顏色像極了曉霞!然後一班宮女就跟風學畫這個傷痕妝了(這是甚麼從眾心理???)。8964 copyright protection176PENANAbwrVcTPdEF 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAyjt8cOvYGO
8964 copyright protection176PENANArQx9j5KIin 維尼
然後我們再看看婉兒的妝: 8964 copyright protection176PENANATe5PKOhYIw 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAFo3kzyoiuX
8964 copyright protection176PENANATUVcWtfQF8 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAn9KC6WmpTN 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAYt0eaEfAyV 維尼
嘿,各位聰明的讀者一看,大概知道這就是婉兒出名的梅花妝了。8964 copyright protection176PENANAvb9xR5XuW8 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAYHOVbsRFnb
8964 copyright protection176PENANAVjzZvZqoBs 維尼
當然,梅花妝並不是婉兒所創的,而是起源於南北朝時期的壽陽公主:8964 copyright protection176PENANACtUqHg5yRK 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANA4JlmZlJySz
8964 copyright protection176PENANAnHDg8uhZFa 維尼
按《太平御覽》一書記載,某年的正月初七,壽陽公主在含章殿睡着了,微風一吹,一片梅花就落在她額頭上。當她醒來後,發覺撕也撕不掉那片梅花,這樣大概過了三天,梅花終於給公主撕掉了,但她額頭上卻留下了梅花的印記,故後人稱之為梅花妝或落梅妝。8964 copyright protection176PENANAL7zp58k5TN 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAHJTyQcFp4g
8964 copyright protection176PENANAteR3gDQvsP 維尼
(弱弱地問一句,公主額頭是塗了古代的AA超能膠嗎?(誤)8964 copyright protection176PENANAjo1h0MyzH8 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAKG6ndU941X
8964 copyright protection176PENANAFmSOjCysvd 維尼
最後,我們來看一下中宗執政時期的太平(被封為鎮國太平公主)和婉兒(被封為昭容,後來降格為婕妤,死後太平求睿宗幫婉兒起復為昭容):8964 copyright protection176PENANAgDAp3ARWme 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAlNS6vHF0Kh
8964 copyright protection176PENANA0KXUQVSfUS 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAtusejFWbcL 維尼
(揮袖好美啊救命)8964 copyright protection176PENANAjxu8pBNQ88 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANA14S7tRwPnF
8964 copyright protection176PENANAmdNVFTl5Vi 維尼
差不多到了盛唐,女子的服裝確實由初唐的窄袖轉為後來的寬袖,所以這裏是對的。她們手臂上纏着的條帶,就是所謂的帔帛,這個我在伴讀那章也有提及過,就不多說了。8964 copyright protection176PENANA5mcqIUWMS1 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAT1c4ikhZZQ
8964 copyright protection176PENANAKbwDJWL0wO 維尼
話說回來,公主這套衣服也蠻適合當婚服的,畢竟以綠色為主調~合乎唐代婚服規格xd8964 copyright protection176PENANAGofiJnlFZy 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAHGEZQbJBob
8964 copyright protection176PENANAfB9ammMeep 維尼
然後再看一下她們二人的妝容:8964 copyright protection176PENANAsmV0PUbYDJ 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAR5A8QPwlQU
8964 copyright protection176PENANAT5pMQiFu04 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANAueHBppZ6RW 維尼
(太平)8964 copyright protection176PENANA4RZUshb1eA 維尼
(婉兒)8964 copyright protection176PENANAaeoHbkbofK 維尼
先看看太平,她臉上化有那三個花紋就是唐代女子常有的花鈿妝了。花鈿又稱之為花子或花靨(只有胭脂的叫面靨或妝靨),除了可以畫在額頭上,也開始施於眉心或兩鬢處。8964 copyright protection176PENANA8WGKuiibnA 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAPhE0KkUyGB
8964 copyright protection176PENANAooeOgst12y 維尼
而婉兒方面,大家可以看到婉兒額上的梅花貼了一顆珍珠。實際上,可作花鈿的材料有很多:除了珍珠,還有金箔、貝殼、羽毛和花瓣等等。8964 copyright protection176PENANAMSOlPs4ZAV 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAgaN8PSlafr
8964 copyright protection176PENANAlJy1qzA9d6 維尼
至於她們的頭飾如鎏金梳子和玉製蝴蝶,也在唐代婦女中十分流行。8964 copyright protection176PENANAwcRnF6rSPe 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAJSOg21Ck5L
8964 copyright protection176PENANANCEqERXESp 維尼
好了,本人科普完畢~感謝各位觀看~8964 copyright protection176PENANAZdhgpWHeSU 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAS5NFqm8rK5
8964 copyright protection176PENANABXMCeIjRbz 維尼
(再次聲明一下,我不是主修歷史和古物鑒賞的,我只是個普通的中文系學生,有錯歡迎指出!另外,我也沒有收取任何廣告費啦~作者完全是為愛發電,努力推廣太平和婉兒這對大唐青梅才寫的本文和小說~)8964 copyright protection176PENANA0UdTUFXS3E 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAtQjrC3jw7B
8964 copyright protection176PENANABJPRjpmX84 維尼
資料來源:8964 copyright protection176PENANA6oe3WgsbiK 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAOajVp53mBC
8964 copyright protection176PENANA6Y9K3pEMHA 維尼
以上太平和婉兒的截圖均來自「【河南衛視大美中國】“千年萬歲,椒花頌聲。”這一次,我們夢迴盛唐,看花開花落!」這個片段,想看的請按這裏:8964 copyright protection176PENANAlQVmNGQyhu 維尼
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1n94y1X7oj?share_source=copy_web&vd_source=b14a04b0cb61e07b4e582901de83644e8964 copyright protection176PENANAUMetNucweK 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAP7wf3ldcWo
8964 copyright protection176PENANAtorrznJfNs 維尼
至於那兩張唐代壁畫圖,則來源於網絡。8964 copyright protection176PENANAjRzF3L5hes 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAspq7IKShX4
8964 copyright protection176PENANAX8C59c7UPq 維尼
另外,如果大家想了解更多唐代婦女衣著打扮,可以看一下以下幾本書:8964 copyright protection176PENANAGZ2nC2f9X7 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANA6UuNUfqOrJ
8964 copyright protection176PENANAqGxPBK3Gd8 維尼
1. 沈從文著:《古人的文化》(其實沈從文先生還有本名為《中國古代服飾研究》的專書,不過學生黨表示沒錢買,傷心)8964 copyright protection176PENANA91SwmmZzvL 維尼
2. 顧凡穎著:《歷史的衣櫥:中國古代服飾擷英》8964 copyright protection176PENANA93YU2NPyNT 維尼
3. 陳芳等人著 :《粉黛羅綺》8964 copyright protection176PENANAQCI0BBYbAh 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAFPHb7IsYrn
8964 copyright protection176PENANAqgdBC5fmH6 維尼
其實關於這方面研究的書籍還有很多,歡迎有興趣的讀者發掘一下哦~8964 copyright protection176PENANAZbEyil5isY 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAHDcsY1C84r
8964 copyright protection176PENANAyRldT1h2YG 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAEkuLYxNCHo
8964 copyright protection176PENANAqS2Oou0tgw 維尼
8964 copyright protection176PENANApWK7SXUsg2 維尼
180Please respect copyright.PENANAKpGbay49Lf
8964 copyright protection176PENANAILbqOLBHMK 維尼
64.252.185.103
ns 64.252.185.103da2